Double-Bonus Weekend
This weekend we get to celebrate Thanksgiving and Loy Gratong.
You may remember our Thanksgiving from last year. This year will be similar, but I think bigger. We’re going to have a healthy mix of American and Thai food, and we’re going to have at least three other families over (one of them is as big as ours – the Hintzes, from last year’s Thanksgiving, had a year very similar to ours in taking kids in). Because school isn’t out for anybody on Thanksgiving Thursday (even the American-centric Grace International School), we’re having Thanksgiving dinner tonight. It might be a wee bit crazy, but as long as there’s enough food I don’t think anyone will mind.
This weekend also happens to be November’s full moon, which means it’s time for Loy Gratong. We didn’t touch this holiday last year, but two years ago (bonus points if you actually remember this) we went into the city and took some pictures. We didn’t take pictures or go to the city this year – in fact we weren’t going to do anything at all – but it turns out there was a big deal going on just down the street from our mubaan, so we walked over there to check it out.
They’d blocked off a side street and (like at every Thai event) had thrown up a market selling food and lights and, well, more food. There was a parade near the end, and as we got closer it decided to turn onto our street, so we got pushed suddenly to the front. People walked by in traditional Thai costumes, holding flags and lanterns, banging drums, or lighting fireworks. The occasional float would go by of an ornately decorated boat or lilypad-type thing with a pretty lady sitting on it waving to everybody.
I’ve learned a little more about the holiday this year. Apparently it’s not just about putting your sins on a boat and watching them float away (only to get beached in somebody else’s backyard). It’s mainly about thanking the river (or the river goddess, depending on how far your beliefs go) for everything. Even today, there are plenty of poorer people who count on the river for running water – for cooking, cleaning, bathing, even drinking, and obviously back in the day the river was all there was for that sort of thing. In a way, it’s a kind of Thai Thanksgiving. Even Christians will take part, though obviously thanking God rather than the river (after all, taking over pagan holidays is an ancient Christian tradition).
In the celebration last night, Isaac got to see his first fireworks. As I said last year, there aren’t any big, musically-timed productions out here. People just buy their own fireworks and set them off. So these really big ones came from behind someone’s house, which meant we were right underneath. Isaac wasn’t sure about them. He was scared of the noises, and he squinted at the bright lights, but he didn’t turn away either. He just hugged Daddy a little tighter and kept on watching.
I think that was my favorite part.





